Pruning

How To Make A Pruning Cut

How do you make healthy cuts? The idea is cut close to the main limb without making a flush cut or leaving a stub. Look for the branch collar, the swollen area where one branch meets and cut just to the outside of this place. For small limbs, cut upward.

A correct pruning cut has its lower point even with the top of a growth bud and slants upward at about a 45° angle.

To make a proper close pruning cut, hold pruning shears with the blade closest to the growth that will remain on the plant. A stub results when you reverse the position and place the hook closest to the plant.

 

For larger limbs, use three cuts. The first cut is an undercut to the bark from peeling down the trunk when you make the second cut to remove the weight of the limb. The third is your finish cut. Here you must guide your saw just to the outside of the branch collar with clean strokes so the final result is smooth.

First, cut beneath branch, one-third to one-half through; then cut off limb beyond first cut. Finally, remove limb stub, cutting just outside bark ridges at limb's base.

Tree Topping

Large branches removed late in the tree's life result in decay, pest infestations, and excessive and poorly attached new brances. All of this can lead to your tree's death and costly removal procedures to be able to replant a new tree.

Do not prune more than 25% of the tree at any one time. This is called "Topping" and is illegal in San Francisco, leads to tree death and is punishable by fine. Tree brances can be in and around the telephone and low voltage wires above your tree as long as there is no streess or undue abrasion. Begin training the young brances to go out and around these wires. Save your tree. Avoid future large pruning cuts. Save the city's urban forest.